Colorado 14er Disasters by Mark Scott-Nash |
Owner Review
by Bob Dorenfeld
June 11, 2015
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Tester Bio |
Name:
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Bob
Dorenfeld |
I'm an active hiker, snowshoer, skier, and of
course backpacker. Home base is the Southern
Colorado Rockies, ranging from alpine tundra to
piņon-juniper scrub and desert at lower
altitudes. Many of my backpack trips are two or
three nights (sometimes longer), and I usually
shoulder about 30 lb (14 kg). My style is
lightweight but not at the expense of enjoyment,
comfort or safety - basic survival gear plus
extras like a camera and air mattress make my
trips safer and more pleasurable. |
Email: |
geartest(at)sageandspruce(dot)net
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Age: |
57 |
Location: |
Central Colorado, USA |
Gender: |
M |
Height: |
5' 6" (1.68 m) |
Weight: |
142 lb (64 kg) |
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Product Overview
Publisher:
Big Earth Publishing
Website: www.bigearthpublishing.com
MSRP: US$14.52 Published:
2009 Binding: Paperback
Language: English
Pages: 176
Dimensions: 9.5 in (24 cm) H x 6 in
(15 cm) W
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This book examines what happens when mountain
climbing and hiking go wrong. Usually in
these environments victims are far from help and
in a place where rescue can be difficult and
delayed. The author dissects some of the
real stories of Colorado 14er disasters and their
rescue attempts, and offers suggestions on how to
avoid these situations. The author, Mark
Scott-Nash, is an experienced mountain and
technical climber who has explored much of his
native Colorado area and also world-wide in Asia,
South America, and Alaska.
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Review
I Imagine
myself carefully placing each foot on the edges of big
boulders, each rock just balanced on other rocks to form
a 45 degree rockfall on the side of Audubon Peak in the
Indian Mountain Wilderness of Colorado. Suddenly a
boulder slips and I lose balance but recover to step
across to another huge rock. But the first boulder slid and tumbled on down
the steep slope, crunching and billiarding other
boulders in its way. I did not fall, nor was
anyone hurt (I was hiking
alone), and the entire rockfall stopped itself shortly
after. But I was chastened and humbled because
only luck prevented me from becoming a "Victim of the
Game" and perhaps not surviving to write a book
review (this incident took place 40 years ago).
I have since had many adventures while hiking
and backpacking, including some as potentially deadly
(and preventable) as
my near-fall on that steep talus, and so when I chanced upon
Colorado 14er Disasters by Mark Scott-Nash, I was
surely intrigued. I find there's always a bit of
schadenfreude lurking beneath the surface when
I see a title like this, but just a short ways into the
book I see that there's more than just gloating that
others' misfortunes didn't happen to me. There are
many valuable insights and lessons to be learned from
mountaineering accidents, as Scott-Nash makes abundantly
clear throughout these dramatically retold stories of
climbers' accidents.
A "14er" is a
mountain summit that tops out at or greater than 14,000 ft
(4267 m) above sea level. Most reckonings put the Colorado total at
54, more than any other state. Scott-Nash tells us that while there have been
numerous changes and improvements in equipment and
dissemination of information about climbing Colorado's
14ers, "two things have not changed: the growing
popularity to complete The List [of 14ers]—the
holy grail of Colorado climbing—and the fact that
the 14ers remain difficult to access in remote
wilderness. These two factors conspire to draw
ever-increasing numbers into what can be an extremely
dangerous environment from which there may be little
chance of escape."
Of the three detailed
accounts that Scott-Nash relates I'll summarize one,
from the section entitled "Wrong Way". This story
involves a pair of summit hikers, one experienced, the
other a novice. Their attempt to summit Mount of
the Holy Cross, a popular non-technical 14er in Central
Colorado, met with disaster due to a cascading series of
poor decisions and an inability to manage risk. In
September 2005 36-year old Eric had over 30 14er summits
to his credit, and was itching for more. His wife
had lost interest, but his friend's wife Michelle, an
inexperienced hiker, was convinced by Eric that the Holy
Cross summit of 14,005 ft (4269 m) was one of the easier
ones. Outfitted with new boots, clothing, and
poles, Michelle trusted Eric to make every decision
regarding day and time of start, hiking pace, and water,
snack and rest breaks. Unfortunately, the first
error came right at the trailhead when Eric discovered
construction and missing signs; they ended up proceeding
along a different route than the easier and more popular
intended trail. Despite discovering his error, and
rather than turn around and "lose time", Eric and
Michelle continued up a difficult ridge route that
involved not only more distance, but much more elevation
gain and loss before reaching the Holy Cross summit
pitch. As we'll see, Eric's fear of "losing time"
would contribute greatly to the bad outcome of this
mountaineering trek.
Scott-Nash includes many more details
about the hike in his account, but suffice to say that
Eric, in his single-minded push to conquer one more
peak, failed in his duty to monitor his companion's
condition. Michelle started showing signs of
fatigue early on, but since she both trusted Eric and
was reluctant to ruin his hike by making him turn back,
she pushed herself up and over alpine ridge after ridge,
finally coming within sight of the Holy Cross summit.
Weather was not particularly a factor on that day, as it
was sunny and mild. But Michelle was doing poorly,
and testimony during the aftermath of this tragedy
suggests that the disorientation of altitude sickness
may have been contributing to her physical weakness and
failure to ask Eric for help. Eric at this point
was fully invested in his own project of completing the
summit, from which position he knew that he could
descend back to their car via the shorter and more
direct route that they should have ascended in the first
place.
And here is where this hike went horribly
wrong: Michelle, very tired, suggested that Eric
go on ahead the final 500 vertical ft (152 m) to the summit. Eric
told Michelle to traverse the summit cone around to
where the other trail descends and that he would meet
her there.
In Scott-Nash's words:
Unfortunately, neither Michelle nor Eric considered the
flaws in this plan. Again, Michelle was a complete
novice, and was physically drained and possibly even
suffered from AMS. Given her lack of experience to
draw on, compounded by the likelihood her mind was clouded
by her physical state, this was an extremely dangerous
situation for Michelle.
She would have no
navigation aids on the traverse such as a trail or
cairns (rock piles used to mark routes), and she would
have to scramble over a field of boulders. "I
pointed to where she should go, and that I would meet her
on the way down," he told investigators.
"I thought it was about two hundred yards, an
eighth of a mile."
He later admitted to investigators that he
vastly underestimated the distance. It was closer
to a mile—a mile of confusing terrain without a
guidepost.
But when Eric descended the
other side of the summit Michelle was not in sight.
In fact she was never found, and no one knows exactly
what happened to her. Even when hikers are in
excellent condition, it can be challenging to maintain
constant elevation while traversing off-trail: there is
a tendency to angle downhill instead of maintaining
altitude. Michelle almost certainly
descended instead, perhaps becoming disoriented and lost,
quickly losing altitude on a vast rocky alpine face.
She may have seen the lush river valley thousands of
feet/meters below her and attempted to descend there for help;
she could have fallen and suffered a concussion, dying of
exposure.
Days and weeks of search and rescue,
including many helicopter flights, turned up no clues as
to Michelle's ultimate fate. Best guesses locate
her body somewhere on that steep above-treeline alpine
slope. On other mountains, bodies (and skeletons)
have eventually been found by hikers and mountaineers,
often years and sometimes decades after their deaths.
The lessons to be learned from this 14er disaster are
many, but include an overly confident and ambitious trip
leader who failed to recognize many early warning signs,
both in himself and his partner. Those signs
include not having accurate and up-to-date trailhead
information, not adhering to the planned route, putting
his own ambitions ahead of the well-being of his hiking
partner, not recognizing his partner's weak state
partway through the climb, and most serious of all,
separating from his partner during her most vulnerable
moment near the summit. Less-experienced hikers
also need to take responsibility for themselves, know
their limits, and insist on slowing down or aborting the
trek if necessary. These lessons
form a common thread throughout Mark Scott-Nash
wonderfully dramatic stories as he intersperses short
3-4 page updates of the rescue attempts with the hikers'
and climbers' unfolding disasters. Phone
conversations, emails, web log posts, and
search-and-rescue communications add tense moments as we
relive the traumatic events.
What sticks with me
after absorbing the tragic stories in Colorado 14er Disasters
is that most hiking and climbing disasters are caused
not by nature or by "bad luck", but by participants' bad
decisions and poor preparedness. Hubris is the
leading cause—and some of us get away with it
while others do not. I recently was able to make a
good decision during a long solo backpack trip to the
desert of Western Colorado. On the third day I
reached a turning point: instead of committing myself
down into a wild and un-trailed canyon of unknown
difficulty, with precipitous
ingress and egress, I
reluctantly faced about and retraced my steps back along
the safe route. Although downcast at the prospect of not
completing my planned round-trip, nonetheless I returned
with a light step knowing that I would not become yet
another "Victim of the Game", and that made me confident
and glad that I'd made the right decision.
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Concluding Thoughts
I thoroughly enjoyed reading
Colorado 14er Disasters: Victims of the Game.
The fast-paced, analytically detailed and
well-researched accounts of hiking and mountaineering
accidents reinforce just how careful it pays to be when
scaling our highest peaks. I can enjoy myself even
more in the wilderness when I know I'm aware of
potential accidents and mishaps, and hopefully learn by
others' mistakes so they don't become my own.
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Reviewed By
Bob
Dorenfeld
Southern Colorado Mountains
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