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Reviews > Footwear > Boots > Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boots > Owner Review by David Baxter
SCARPA CHARMOZ GTX BOOTS
TESTER INFORMATION
Backpacking background: I have been hiking for four years, and backpacking for three. I get out on the trails or snow every weekend, regardless of the weather. My trips range anywhere from fairly short dayhikes to longer multi-day backpacking trips. In the winter I snowshoe or snow-climb in moderate terrain and occasionally participate in a glaciated climb. My typical winter pack is about 15 lb (6.8 kg) for a day trip, and 35 - 45 lb (16 - 20 kg) for a glacier climb with an overnight camp. In the summer my pack is around 25 lb (11 kg). PRODUCT INFORMATION
Manufacturer: Scarpa PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
The Charmoz is a lightweight full-synthetic climbing boot. It has a nylon upper reinforced with Lorica synthetic-leather, Pro-Fiber midsole, and a Vibram Mulaz sole. It also has a Gore-Tex liner for added waterproofing. A nylon shank provides stiffening. The inner lining is a firm but soft padded material. FIELD TESTING I have used these boots for the past year in various conditions and on dayhikes, snowshoe trips, snow-climbs, and with crampons on a glacier. They have more than 100 miles (160 km) on them. They have seen temperatures from about 90 F (32 C) down to about 10 F (-12 C), elevations from 1000 ft to 14400 ft (305 m - 4390 m), and conditions varying from rain, to snow, to sun. Comfort These boots fit my feet quite well. I have a slightly wide foot and there is plenty of space in the toe box. When laced well I do not have a problem with my toes hitting the end even when kicking steps. They perform very well on uneven terrain from rocks to snow and ice. The stiffness of the boot does make long trips on packed trail or concrete uncomfortable though, and when traveling longer distances on dirt I do tend to get blisters on my heel. However for trips entirely on snow I have not had one yet. The stiffness seems adjusted for a variety of conditions. They do feel too stiff for long stretches of rough rock though and left my ankles feeling sore. On moderate to steep snow they worked fantastic. Over time they have softened up a bit, but that softening seems to be more in the upper than the sole. Support The boot does not bend easily and can support my weight plus pack when kicking steps and edging. I have used them with a pack up to 60 lb (27 kg) and felt very confident. They have enough ankle articulation that I can move without feeling too awkward over rough terrain. The collar cinches flat against the ankles and does a good job of keeping snow out. The upper parts of the collar can pinch a little when traveling on extended steep pitches, however. Sole The Vibram soles offer very good traction, as good as any other Vibram equipped boot I have used. The tread is quite deep which works well on rock and dirt, but also has a large flat area at the toe, imprinted with the words "Climbing Zone" that adds some stiffness in the toe and added traction on packed snow and ice, as well as aiding kicking steps. I have felt very secure traveling over dirt, mud, rock, snow, ice and through streams. Warmth These are most definitely not the boots one would want for deep cold or standing around in the snow. Because they are so light they don't carry much insulation. They do warm up quickly when moving, but once stopped cool down just as fast. I wore them to the top of Mt. Rainier in July with a thick pair of SmartWool socks and silk liners and did not feel a chill. However during my climbing training trips after extended periods of standing around in slushy snow my feet did become cold. Durability & waterproofing
I have had no issues with damage to these boots over the last year. They have held up well to everything I've put them through, and I tend to be hard on boots. The tread shows only limited wear and the rest of the boot appears nearly new. There is a thick, wide rubber wrap around the front of the toe, down the sides, and low on the back of the boot. This has taken the brunt of any impacts with rocks, ice, trees, and crampons. There is visible scuffing and a few small gouges but nothing has penetrated the rubber. At the back of the ankle the plastic shelf where my strap-on crampon attaches there is some gouging, but again only appears to be typical wear. Personal Experience
These boots were purchased for a glacier-climbing course and subsequent climbing use, the end goal being a summit of Mt. Rainier. They were not my initial purchase however. I first purchased a similar pair of lightweight climbing boots based on a recommendation of a climbing partner. After one trip though it was apparent they were too narrow for my feet. I returned them for the Scarpas after a little searching and they were a great fit! Summary
The Charmoz's are lightweight, full synthetic mountaineering boots with a Gore-Tex liner. They have a crampon-compatible Vibram sole and a stiff nylon shank. I am very happy with these boots. They are well constructed and have performed as expected with no serious problems. I can feel the terrain well through these boots and have a better sense of what conditions I am traveling through. I feel comfortable with their support over a wide variety of conditions and would not hesitate to bring them on milder-temperature trips anywhere in Washington state. The wear has been excellent so far, however most of their use has been on snow and glacier. I cannot say if they would stand up to heavy use on rock and trail. Because they are lightweight, uninsulated, boots I would also not bring them on cold winter excursions or, say, to Alaska. Read more reviews of Scarpa gear Read more gear reviews by David Baxter Reviews > Footwear > Boots > Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boots > Owner Review by David Baxter |