Reviews > Books > Trail Guides > Porcupine Mountains Companion > Owner Review by Andrew Mytys

Owner Review

Product Information:

Title: Porcupine Mountains Companion - Inside Michigan's Largest State Park Author(s): Michael Rafferty and Robert Sprague Color Plate Photography: Dan Urbanski Printing: 2001, Fourth Edition Publisher: Nequaket Natural History Associates PO Box 103 White Pine, MI 49971 Size: 367 pages, soft cover, 8 1/2 x 5 7/16 x 7/8 inches (216 x 137 x 22 mm) Weight: 15.5 oz (439 g) ISBN: 0-9711654-4-0 MSRP: $18.95 (includes U.S. shipping)   Availability: Unfortunately, I've yet to come across a web-based bookseller who carries this title - Amazon, Borders, Barnes and Noble, and others have no available stock, new or used. In fact, the ISBN doesn't even come back with a title listing on these sites. In some regards, the Companion is a rare gem, available only to those lucky individuals who have come across it in person. Readers wishing to get their own copy can obtain one in person while visiting the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. Alternatively, the Companion can be purchased directly from the publisher by writing to Nequaket Natural History Associates, PO Box 103, White Pine MI 49971 - include your return address and a check for $18.95 with your order. Available via mail to U.S. customers only.

I finally got my copy of the Porcupine Mountains Companion, a 367 page guide to Michigan's largest state park, the Porcupine Mountains, or, as they are affectionately referred to by the locals, the Porkies.

The park itself is over 60,000 acres in size, half of which is comprised of virgin forest. The park's border extends across 23 miles (37 km) of Lake Superior shoreline, and there are over 100 miles (160 km) of hiking trails - crossing upland swamps, meadows, and tall timber stands - within its borders.

The Companion is written by two long-time park rangers, Michael Rafferty and Robert Sprague, who each have over 25 seasons of service with the park. It started out as a simple collection of notes and maps sketched on pieces of paper. Material was then gathered on the park's history, wildlife, and vegetation. Information accumulated as research moved to libraries, old newspapers, government publications, and the land itself. Eventually, this information was compiled into one document and published. Since its first edition, back in 1992, the Companion has been revised three times. It is now in its fourth edition - last updated in 2001. Judging by the contents, the authors did more than just slap a new cover on their work. It is clear that this project is an ongoing labor of love, and that the authors aren't against putting in a lot of time and effort in order to get a polished result.

The Companion is organized in such a way that it can be taken a few pages at a time, or cover-to-cover; it isn't overwhelming by any means. One of the more welcome features of this book is the presence of reference links to other pages. These links allow readers to quickly skip from one section of the book to another, continuing reading details on a given subject. For example, bear basics (size, life cycle, behavior) are covered in the "Wildlife" section. For those needing more detail on the subject there's a link to additional information that points the reader to the "Living in the Woods" section of the book. This allows for relevant information to be segmented, yet still gives quick access to the entire text for those readers who are interested. Thanks to an index, specific information is easy to find. I found the Companion to be a well-written and interesting read, and it became a difficult book to put down (think Harry Potter for enthusiasts of Michigan's Upper Peninsula). Suffice it to say that I read the Companion in its entirety, including the topics that I really wasn't interested in, and closed the covers wanting to experience it all.

The guide is written with three, often overlapping, disciplines in mind - naturalist, anthropologist, and outdoors enthusiast (hiker, backpacker, fisherman, etc). Topics are presented in a park-centric manner, with enough detail to give the reader a solid introduction to a variety of subjects. As I read the Companion, I felt the lessons I learned in natural science courses being echoed, with a clear and direct application to the park's ecosystem highlighted. Being able to actually witness examples of the Companion's lessons within the park made the contents that much easier to appreciate.

In terms of the level of detail given on any given topic, some may find the Companion's contents to be sufficient while others may find that their curiosity has not been completely satisfied. Personally, I found the level of detail to be "just right" for me. The Companion made its points without being overly verbose or getting into a doctorate thesis. For readers wanting to learn more, the authors made sure to include a list of recommended texts on some subjects, and added a full disclosure of their research in the form of a bibliography - readers can easily go beyond the basics if they wish, though with some references going back to texts that are over 150 years old, this could be an adventure in itself. After reading the Companion, I walked away feeling I had a solid, introductory education on the park and its surrounding region.

Following the path of simplicity, the book's content is broken down into just three parts - The Area at a Glance, A Closer Look, and Discovering the Wilderness.

The first section, which is entitled The Area at a Glance, covers the history of the Upper Peninsula (UP) and how it came to be a part of Michigan. It introduces Porcupine Mountains State Park, listing the various recreational opportunities that are available to visitors. Park layout and approaches are also detailed, and the park's main attractions are listed. Camping options, both within the park and in nearby areas, are also described in detail. A brief introduction to the park's hiking trails appears in this section as well. Finally, the other attractions in the area are listed, including tours of historic mining towns, nearby waterfalls, and a trip to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. The authors concede that there are times when plans change, pointing to periods of high stable fly infestation as an example where visitors may find it more relaxing to spend their time outside of the park.

The next section, entitled A Closer Look, covers the natural and human history of the area. Young readers who are uncertain of their career paths may suddenly find themselves interested in geology, astronomy, biology, anthropology, or meteorology after completion of this section. The text begins by delving into the area's geology, covering the role of plate tectonics in the creation of the Porkies, explaining the sedimentary layers of the Keweenawan supergroup, and providing a map detailing the distribution of the layers within the park. There are also B&W photos of the various types of sedimentary rocks included along with descriptive text. The role of glaciation in carving out the park is also discussed, in addition to the roll that glaciers played in forming the Great Lakes.

The section continues with the waterfall guide, which starts by describing the fourteen named falls in the park and outlining their locations - they are often misrepresented on area maps (including those created by the USGS). The waterfall guide sets the record straight and, in addition, provides directions to 47 other, unnamed falls.

Next comes information pertaining to area weather and how it is influenced by Lake Superior. Details on lake water levels, air temperature trends, lake effect snow, and UP weather patterns are given.

An introduction to the nightime sky is also given, including suggestions on what types of binoculars yield the best viewing results. Constellation, star, and planet locations are provided through the use of star charts, and annual meteor shower information is given.

Forest vegetation is the next topic to be tackled by the Companion. The post-glacial creation of the forest is discussed, including examples of how the resulting topography acts as physical boundaries, forming distinct plant communities in some areas, while allowing for a gradual transition or blending of species to occur in others. Aerial photos and maps are used to show readers how the park is naturally divided based upon the presence of dominant tree species or outstanding site characteristics such as swamps and meadows. Forest and non-forest communities are also highlighted. The Companion summarizes the ecology of important tree species and provides location and access information to old growth forest.

The next subject to be touched upon is that of Wildflowers. B&W photos of some of the more common wildflowers are given, in addition to listing the seasons and environments that these flowers can be found in. The Companion is not meant to be a wildflower guide, however, and it points interested readers in the direction of appropriate field guides that can help in identifying the various flowers found in the park.

Wildlife is also highlighted, and the major species that call the park home are described. The Companion reveals a few tips for finding wildlife as well.

While the park has a rich natural history, the Companion also makes sure to include its human history, from both a recent and pre-historical perspective. It uses two key natural resources to focus on the park's human history, copper and timber. One of the most interesting nuggets that's touched on is the "Bronze Age Theory," where 6,000 years ago a contingent of workers from ancient Europe came to North America to mine raw copper, a key component of Bronze. Forget about Columbus. Apparently, the Chinese, Vikings, and Egyptians weren't the first ones to "discover" America either. Prehistoric miners did it. Now, the authors do make a note that professional archeologists view these theories as "outlandish and excessive; myths kept alive by dreamers and amateur scientists." At the same time, they admit that "they are fun to read in spite of their sketchy logic." For readers interested in chasing such legends, there are entries in the bibliography pointing to additional sources of information.

Moving from myth to reality, a more "accepted" view of copper in terms of local human history is summarized. A brief history of Native American tribal migration is given which eventually centers on the tribe that called the Porkies home - the Ojibwa. Information on population densities, range, and lifestyle is given, with a section describing the types of homes and communities that these pre-European setters lived in. The Companion also addresses how native peoples survived off of the land, and how they dealt with the elements and other natural challenges that were present. Ojibwa life in terms of hunting, fishing, and gardening opportunities is touched on, as well as topics such as shamans, and religious ceremonies. The arrival of the "Europeans" and its impact on the tribes is also discussed, centering on groups such as traders, trappers, missionaries, and politicians. The history is complete, going from the first encounter with Europeans through today's Ojibwa population.

At this point the Companion takes a break in order to display 29 color photos by Dan Urbanski, a professional photographer who decided to "call it quits" while vacationing in the UP back in 1977. Dan now runs a studio at the eastern end of the Porkies, in Silver City.

With Native American and ancient history behind it, the Companion moves to a review of the area's history from a European perspective. Fur trading, from its infancy through its heyday, is described, including trade values of fur in the 1830's (e.g. a northwest gun, 4 beaver skins).

After fur trading, the Companion returns to mining, this time covering a more "recent" history. Copper extraction techniques and technologies throughout the past 150 years are discussed, as well as the industry's effect on the land and economy. Histories of specific mines that were located within the range of the Porkies are given. Remnants of these mines can still be found in the backwoods of the Porkies, though sketchy details are given as to the mine locations. Many "historical artifacts" would most likely be viewed upon by visitors as "old rusty junk" cast into the woods, so it's no surprise that the Companion avoids giving GPS coordinates to the various sites it discusses. The Companion notes that "a total of 45 mining companies had claims in the Porcupine Mountains at one time or another," with the bulk of them having nothing more than a small test pit dug and small cabin built in the area. The authors note that it has probably been a dozen or more years since the last hiker or hunter stumbled through them. A few of the mines can be easily found, though any visions of old shafts and buildings are quickly dismissed. A map is provided that shows a "rough" location of some of the mines. Suffice it to say that rangers will provide specific locations for where you can go, and you're on your own to bushwhack and find anything else.

The history of logging is the next area of human impact that the authors cover. While statistics are presented that give one an appreciation for what was lost, the authors hardly damn those who entered the woods with axe and saw in hand. "... we see this catastrophic logging era for what it was; business, progress, civilization. It was man feeding his family, a nation taming rugged land." Today, the Porcupine Mountains remain as one of the few large tracts of virgin forest in the Midwest, though "were the bulk of Upper Michigan still covered in primeval forest, (the Porkies) would perhaps be less noteworthy than they are." A shaded area map is included that shows where logging activity occurred within the park throughout history.

The section closes with a summary of more recent history, including the politics involved in forming the park, a summary of natural disasters that have occurred since the park formed, further corporate attempts to exploit the park's resources, and the history of tourism in the Porkies. Current (as of 2001) and future park improvements are also outlined.

The final section of the Companion, entitled Discovering the Wilderness, focuses on visiting the backcountry and seasonal changes. It begins by covering recommended accoutrements for traveling in the backcountry (pack, map, compass, flashlight, emergency food, etc) as well as travel tips such as plotting your course as you progress and keeping track of how much daylight remains.

Basic backpacking concepts, such as trip planning, hypothermia, and hydration are also covered, in addition to tips on reducing pack weight. In no way is the Companion a primer on backpacking, but the most important points to cover before taking your first steps into the backcountry are reviewed.

Giardia is found in local water sources, so proper water treatment techniques are also reviewed.

The Porkies are home to a number of black bears, so food storage, trash disposal, and bear avoidance tips are discussed. Bear behavior is also covered, and the Companion instructs would-be hikers how to deal with bears should a bruin pay a visit into camp.

The real pests of the Porkies are the insects, however, and an entire section is devoted to the little buggers. The Companion goes so far as to exaggerate and even brag about the level of bugs in the park - visitors can hardly say that they weren't forewarned. The end of May through June is said to be the worst by far, and the Companion has a few tips for those visitors who arrive in the park during peak times of infestations, including visiting the park's interior, taking road trips outside of the park - several suggestions are given - and hunkering down in bathtub sized holes near small waterfalls.

Special emphasis is given to ticks, black flies, no-see-ums, horse and deer flies, mosquitoes, and the stable fly, the most dreaded of the bunch.

Readers who are still up for a hike are provided with many options in this section, which describes trail features for short (1-4 mile/1.5-6.5 km) and long (5-13 mile/8-21 km) day-hikes. Topographic map segments and elevation profiles are provided for these hikes. Longer, multi-day backpacking routes are also described in detail.

The Porkies contain 16 backcountry cabins that are available for rent, and a description of each of these cabins is given, including an exterior photo and cabin history. A park map is provided in the cabin section that shows the network of maintained hiking trails and the location of each cabin within the park. There are also a number of tips given on successfully renting and enjoying the cabins.

The Companion recognized that some visitors will be more interested in experiencing the park from a kayak, bike, or cliff face than treading on backcountry pathways, so there's a brief discussion on sea and river kayaking, mountain biking, and rock climbing.

The Porkies see the greatest number of visitors from June through August; particularly in August when there are fewer nuisance bugs to be found. There is also a spike in visitation from late September through early October, due to the dramatic display of fall colors that occurs. However, the off seasons also have their own attractions, and the Companion makes sure to cover life in the park throughout the entire year. In particular, winter is highlighted.

As the Porkies are located off the shore of Lake Superior, a significant amount of snow accumulates in the park and visitors take to the slopes. The Companion outlines the various slopes, rates their difficulty, and gives short descriptions of each run. A map of the ski area is provided, showing the location of lifts, runs, chalets, and parking areas.

With 25 miles (40 km) of groomed Nordic trails, the Porkies also provide opportunities for cross-country skiers. The Companion provides an orientation map of the Nordic trail system, and describes each of the trail segments as the authors prefer to ski them (most trails are double-track and can be skied in either direction).

Snowshoeing and telemark skiing are other winter activities that the Companion encourages, with lakeshore, backcountry, and ranger-led interpretive showshoe hikes outlined.

For those wanting their winter experiences in the Porkies to last more than a few hours, the Companion explores opportunities for winter camping and cabin rental.

The winter chapter closes by detailing winter road maintenance policies, describing which roads are plowed and to what point, and listing what roads are maintained as snowmobile trails.

The Companion concludes with an appendix, containing the bibliography and a section listing all the species of flowers, ferns, trees, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians that are found in the park.

In closing, the Companion is one of the most well-balanced park guides I have ever used, a statement that includes books covering such well known parks as Yosemite, Yellowstone, and Grand Canyon. Just about all the basic information with respect to this park and its surrounding regions can be found between the covers of this guide - there's no reason to buy any other text on the subject. The authors feel that, "while living in the area, we have rediscovered the Porcupine Mountains." Their goal is to "pass along part of this discovery," without "heaping on wisdom or taking adventure out of short excursions to the park." Surprisingly, this is precisely what the Companion achieves. I feel that the Companion is a park guide that strikes an almost perfect balance, delivering practical trail data for the hiker, and enhancing the overall experience of the Porkies with a wealth of additional information that focuses on the natural and human aspects of the park. I wish that more park guides were as comprehensive as the Companion.

I do have a few small nits with the guide, however:

• The graphical trail maps fail to include mileage on them. I read the trail descriptions and penciled in mileage between major trail junctions on the maps found on pages 28 and 300.
  
  
• While the Companion lists all the types of flowers, ferns, trees, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians found in the Porkies, it fails to list the species of mushrooms that are native to the park. The area is certainly rich in mushrooms of various shapes, colors, and textures - I'd certainly be interested in having a checklist of fungi in the park to aid in my field research.
  
  
• In terms of bear bagging, the Companion suggests using "very small diameter aircraft cable to suspend your food," as the bears cannot see and chew through it. Two things bother me about this. The first is a possible deviation from "Leave No Trace" wilderness ethics - heavy weights suspended from such cable could damage tree bark. The second is that such line tends to be challenging to work with, especially for those lacking proficiency in bear-bagging. I'd like to see the guide promoting easier to use anti-bear food storage solutions, such as bear canisters and Ursack food bags.
  
  
• I'm totally confused about what the authors are referring to when they mention a peak in the Porkies that "rises to a height of 2023 feet." The Companion correctly lists Michigan's highpoint as Mt. Arvon, 1979 feet (603 m). So, why does the text refer to the highest elevation within the Porcupine Mountains to be Government Peak, which "rises to a height of 2023 feet?"

A Final Word/Personal Disclosure - One of the Companion's authors is the uncle of a very good friend of mine. It is through this relationship that I discovered the Companion. As I stated above, this title is not well known and is very localized in its availability. This review gives high praise to the Companion, and I truly feel that this praise is deserving based solely on the merits of the text itself. While other guides to the Porcupine Mountains are available, none of those that I have read come close to the Companion in terms of providing comprehensive coverage, field research, and authoritative, hands on knowledge of the Porkies. I encourage any readers interested in the ecology and history of Michigan's Upper Peninsula to add this title to their libraries. Of course, it is a must read for those planning on visiting the Porcupine Mountains themselves.

Personal Biographical Information:

Reviewer: Andrew Mytys Email: amytys@gmail.com Homepage: Andy's Lightweight Backpacking Site Location: Michigan Age: 33 Gender: Male Height: 6'1" (185 cm) Weight: 165 lb (75 kg)

     Backpacking Background:

I live in Michigan and have been hiking seriously for 15 years, although I've camped since I was 6 years old. I consider myself a lightweight hiker. I carry the lightest gear I can get my hands on which will provide a comfortable wilderness experience and adequately support the goals of my trip. Unless my goals are time/distance oriented, my pace is always slow. I rarely exceed 1.5 miles (2.4 km)/hour. I rest frequently, hike long days, and enjoy whatever nature throws my way.

Reviews > Books > Trail Guides > Porcupine Mountains Companion > Owner Review by Andrew Mytys