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Reviews > Cook and Food Storage Gear > Stoves > Brasslite Turbo I-D > Test Report by David Wilkes
PRODUCT INFORMATION & SPECIFICATIONSManufacturer: Brasslite, LLCYear of Manufacture: 2008 Manufacturer’s Website: www.brasslite.com MSRP: US$30.00 (stove) + US$20.00 (stand extension upgrade) [From the manufacturer’s web site]
Measured Weight (including extensions) : 2.2 oz (63 g) [measured on an digital Escali scale] All other measurements matched manufacturer's specifications. INITIAL REPORTThis test has had a bit of a rocky start; due to a mistake on my part the post office delivered the package to the wrong address, but told me it could not be delivered so it should be on its way back to the manufacturer, however they could not confirm this. Aaron at Brasslite worked with me and offered a replacement stove at wholesale cost and not charge me for shipping, and stated that they would refund my money if the original package made it back to them. I ended up tracking down the original package and Brasslite is going to refund me what I sent them for the replacement kit. ![]() My stove arrived along with a wind screen and fuel bottle. According to the Brasslite web page the wind screen and fuel bottle are not standard with the stoves but can be included as separate-order items. The web site also offers various combination sets that include a stove, pot or cup/mug, wind screen, fuel bottle and storage bag. A description of the stove from the bottom up: The preheat pan is attached to the bottom of the stove. It is a crimped circular brass plate (similar to a small partially flattened pie pan) attached to the bottom of a brass can (kind of like a cat food can) with 6 round holes (vents) around the bottom and a larger opening in the top (chimney). The ‘can’ makes up the main body of the stove and is constructed with a secondary inner wall to improve its performance. NOTE: the “D” in the nomenclature of this series of stoves annotates this double wall construction. Wrapped around the can portion of the stove is a brass sleeve with notches on the bottom (matching the holes in the can) and a flat tab that extends out. This sleeve acts as a simmer adjustment. It can be rotated around to cover the vent holes in the sides of the stove and reduce the source of air, thereby reducing the heat of the stove. Attached to the top of the can is a ring of stainless steel wire mesh to support the pot above the stove. The stand is comprised of three ‘Z’ shaped stainless steel rods slightly larger in diameter than that of the wire mesh. Each extension piece is soldered (by hand according to the manufacturer’s web page) to the bottom of the stove and the top of the wire pot stand. With the addition of these extensions, the overall diameter of the stove becomes 5 in (13 cm). The manufacturer recommends not using the Turbo I-D with pots that have a diameter larger than 5 in (13 cm) without the stand extensions. The manufacturer’s web site provides some very useful information regarding matching up the correct stove and pot size. After reading that the extensions are attached by hand I wondered if they might be uneven. However, after close inspection, I was impressed at how precise the extensions are. All three legs sit flat and my pot sits firmly upon it with no rocking or movement despite the bottom of the pot not being entirely flat (it is a bit misshapen from melting snow). The stove is clearly well made and appears quite durable. Having only a single moving part, that is not only very simple but also not vital to the basic operation of the stove, suggests to me that short of being crushed there is little that can fail. The instructions mention possibly needing to adjust the simmer sleeve if it does not rotate easily, and clearly explains how to accomplish this. The simmer sleeve of the stove I received worked fine and did not require any adjustment. ![]() Brasslite offers a 30 day no explanation needed return policy, as well as a warranty against “structural defects” as long as the original owner owns the stove. The manufacturer’s web page contains quite a bit of useful information ranging from selecting the right stove for the customers' needs, pot size recommendations, instructions on making pot cozies, as well as other products and links to other sites and DIY instructions (including instructions to make some of the discontinued models of Brasslite stoves). The web site, along with having a link to obtain a copy of the operating instructions, also contains a very descriptive set of images (see animation to left) showing the II-D model (larger version of the I-D that I am testing) in action along with warm and cold weather priming options. Documentation and Instructions: The documentation includes the reasonable warnings about how you are playing with fire and should take appropriate precautions, with specific instructions not to over fill the stove or use it with fuels other than what is recommended. Basically the all too necessary “look I told you to be careful & most of this is common sense, so please don’t try to sue me if you do something foolish” sort of stuff. It also strongly recommends not attempting to refill the stove while lit. The documentation covers information on the use, construction and modification of windscreens, acceptable fuels, as well as stove tips and cleaning instructions. The documentation I received with the stove is the same as what I found available on the Brasslite web site. The lighting and usage instructions, while mostly obvious, are well worded and easy to follow. They however do include some information on the operation of the simmering sleeve (see below) that unlike most of the other instructions and warnings was not immediately obvious to me, and may have prevented me from accidentally dumping over a burning stove and pot of boiling water. I normally only read the instructions as a last resort, so this is something that I think should be made to stand out more from the other instructions. To paraphrase the lighting and operating instructions: 1) Put stove on a flat
non-flammable
surface
To simmer, after the stove has burned long enough to fully heat
up, simply turn the simmering ring so it covers the holes as necessary
to set the desired flame height (stove will be hot, so use a tool, or
stick, not bare fingers!). The instructions state that the weight of
the stove alone may not be enough to easily turn the simmer ring
without tipping it over, so it is suggested this be done with the pot
held firmly in place on top of the stove. This suggestion about
adjusting the simmer ring while using the pot to hold the stove seems
like a good safety tip that I am not sure I would have thought of
myself.2) Add fuel 3) Light 4) Cook Fuel Since I am new to alcohol stoves, I have done a bit of research in preparation for this test. Along with the documentation provided by the manufacturer (with the stove and on their web page) there is quite a bit of information available online. From my research I concluded that I will initially try two sources of fuel for the stove due to their availability in my area and burning properties (little to no soot and high energy to weight ratio). Denatured alcohol (ethanol with a denaturing agent & other chemicals added) and Methyl alcohol (in the form of “HEET” gas line antifreeze). First use I had every intention to hold off lighting the stove until I had taken photos of the stove and accessories, but my wife had the camera and I simply could not resist. I put ½ oz of denatured alcohol in the main chamber of the stove and lit it. I saw a bit of flame and then nothing. After a few seconds, I passed my hand over the stove and felt a bit of heat so I placed my 900 ml (30 oz) titanium pot containing 600 ml (20 oz) of water on the stove. After about 20 seconds, I assumed the stove had gone out due to me not priming the stove per the instructions, but when I placed my hand next to it I could tell it was getting hot. In my excitement I forgot to start my timer so I do not know how long it burned, but by the time the stove ran out of fuel the water had gone from 77 F (25 C) to 175 F (79 C). Something immediately obvious is that the Brasslite stove with the extensions is very stable even with a pot full of water. This cannot be said of my homemade stove, and it seems more stable than my canister stove. I also placed 1/2 oz (15 ml) of the same fuel in my homemade "Pepsi" stove (low-pressure jet style) and repeated the test. What was plain from this, and some subsequent tries, was that the homemade stove heated the water faster but also used up its fuel faster and required more fuel to bring the same volume of water to a boil. Preliminary test plan: Phase I – Controlled Environment Tests Try
out the stove under controlled conditions. Test and document setup
&
usage and note significant milestones in learning to use the
Turbo I-D. Measure boil times in comparison to a White Gas stove and a
pressurized canister stove. Evaluate fuel usage and estimate volumes
necessary for actual field tests (since I have never used a alcohol
stove in the field I want to get an idea of how much fuel I should have
with me). Experiment with various cooking methods.
Phase II –
Initial Field TestsAn important part of this phase would be to estimate the safety of using this stove in the field especially when in close quarters with flammable materials. I once came close to having a very bad experience while lighting a white gas stove on a pine needle covered forest floor. Since I try to practice “Leave No Trace”, not burning down the forest is kind of important to me. Use
the stove in actual field conditions but with minimal risk. Since I
have not utilized this type of stove and expect to be trying new
methods of back country cooking I will start by using it for low risk
situations such as day hikes and short backpacking trips where a
failure of this stove to perform would not be a major problem (such as
having an alternate food source or a backup stove). During this phase I
would like to compare the performance of this stove against my other
stoves is actual field conditions. I will also be looking into packing
and transport methods needed to adequately protect the stove when not
in use.
Phase III –
Field Usage
I will use the stove as my
primary (if not only) stove for backcountry cooking. I will be looking
for answers to questions such as how well does it perform (in different
weather conditions: wind, cold, altitude, etc) and how well it stands
up to normal usage/storage, how much fuel does it use, does it soot up
the bottoms of my pot, etc.
Finally, the most important question; am I willing to give up my old stoves for this one; in all conditions, or just some? If some, which? FIELD REPORTField usage:
Field reportI have to start out this report by mentioning that I have never eaten so well while backpacking as I have during the field tests of this stove. I normally stick to commercially prepared dehydrated backpacker meals, instant oatmeal (and similar items for breakfast), and hot tea & cocoa. I have been known to simply skip cooking and eat energy bars and fruit for an entire (short) trip. During these tests, I have discovered the joy of eating REAL oatmeal (more on that later) along with pasta, soup, and my favorite, cheese & spinach tortellini with parmesan cheese sauce! I had no idea what I was missing.After using the Brasslite stove a few times at home, it was clear that my original plan of comparing the boil times for the various stoves I own would be of no value. This is not a stove I would use if I wanted to boil water quickly. The 15min or so it takes to boil 500 ml (17oz) of water is about double what it takes for my white gas stove, and far longer than the 2min it takes with my pressurized canister stove. However, while doing some research into alcohol stoves, I found some material on the relative energy density of various fuels. According to what I have been able to find, of the three types of fuel used by my stoves, the alcohol has the lowest energy density by weight. So my question became at what point would the weight reduction achieved by the Brasslite be offset by the weight of having to carry more fuel? To answer this question, I boiled 500 ml (16 oz) of water with each stove, and calculated the weight of fuel expended. To keep things simple I used an assumption of each meal requiring the boiling of 500 ml (16oz) of water. Throughout this report I will use 500 ml (16 oz) of water as a standard serving size when calculating fuel usage. I was able to calculate that it would take approximately 50 meals before the fuel efficiency of the pressurized canister stove is able to offset the weight savings of the Brasslite. It was obvious from the 1 g (0.04 oz) difference between the fuel used by the Brasslite and my white gas stove that it would take around 100 meals to offset the 100g (3.5 oz) difference between the two stoves. Since there are options available regarding the container for each of the fuels, I did not include weight of the container needed for the fuel in my calculations. There are simply too many variables involved and I did not have any empty canisters at the time. However, I could conclude that the weight of the pressurized canisters needed for 50 meals would likely be greater than what would be needed to carry the alcohol for the same meals. It was obvious from this test that even on a two-week trip, cooking an average of three servings a day, I would still be carrying less weight with the Brasslite than with any of my other stoves. During one trip, I realized I miscalculated the number of servings I would be making. I factored in four hot meals a day (cooking for my daughter and myself) but forgot about the hot drinks we brought (tea & cocoa). This mistake helped me realize an advantage of the Brasslite fuel dispenser I received with the stove. Being able to see exactly how much fuel was in the container allowed me to (with surprising accuracy) determine how much I would need to alter our menu (skip hot drinks for two meals) in order to ensure we would have enough fuel for the duration of the trip.
I
tried lighting the stove with and without priming. I found that while I
was able to reliably light the stove at home using a long kitchen type
of lighter, and some success with a wooden match, it was very difficult
to impossible to do it with a standard lighter or flint/steel. During
my field use I found lighting it with a standard lighter or flint was
not reliable without some sort of priming even in warm weather. I found
it to be most effective when I used the Cold Weather priming method
described in the instructions. However, I did come up with one trick
while trying to avoid priming. After filling the stove, I dipped a
short stick into the fuel, lit the end of the stick and used it to
light the stove. This worked well in warm weather (I have not tried it
in
cold weather). I found lighting the stove in cold weather (near
freezing) to be a bit more challenging. The cold greatly reduced the
flame of my lighter and made it hard to keep lit, as a result it took a
few tries to get the fuel in the priming dish lit. This surprised me,
given how flammable alcohol is at room temperature. |