1. Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp Description

The Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp is a 3-LED headlamp that claims to be the first all-LED headlamp to use HyperBright LED technology. Flanked on either side by 2 "standard" SuperBright LEDs for in-camp and casual usage, the single HyperBright LED projects a xenon-like pre-focused beam that is 5 times brighter than the SuperBrights, according to Black Diamond. The Zenix is built with a tough plastic material and claimed as waterproof. This, in combination with a design that includes an external behind-the-head battery compartment and an over-the-top head strap, give the Zenix the looks and build of a mountaineering headlamp.

Powered by 3 AAA batteries, it claims significant improvement in longevity over traditional bulb headlamps (see specs below). The Black Diamond Zenix is blue with black straps and labeling, and ships with 3 Energizer AAA batteries and a 3-year warranty. Photos and additional details are available at the Black Diamond website. It retails in February 2004 for $44.95.

2. Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp Specifications

Zenix LED Headlamp complete with 3 AAA Energizer batteries - 4.9oz (140g)
    **Claimed weight in literature is 4.5oz (128g)
Zenix LED Headlamp without batteries - 3.6oz (104g)
    **Claimed weight in literature is 3.3oz (93g)
Zenix LED Headamp with AAA Energizer batteries and over-the-top strap removed (lightest functioning setup - 4.6oz (130g)

Power and Longevity of 2 SuperBright LEDs: 50ft (15m) for 100 hours
Power and Longevity of 1 HyperBright LEDs: 115ft (35m) for 15 hours
    **Manufacturer specifications for Power and Longevity
    **Black Diamond defines Usable Light to mean you can: look inside your pack and find an item at the bottom; see your feet when climbing at night; see well enough to tie a knot and set up a rappel.

3. Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp Initial Report and Impressions

Long have I been searching for a reasonably priced, solid, high quality LED headlamp suitable for mountaineering!

For a few years now, I have hoped to find an LED headlamp that can climb well. Since LED headlamp technology became popular, I have hoped for the day that I can replace my halogen, xenon, and krypton climbing headlamps with an efficient and lightweight LED torch without significant compromise. So far, I have not done so. There have been a couple of headlamps on the market that could possibly do the job, but they use too many LEDs to do the job, have been far from lightweight and incredibly expensive. I'm not interested in paying more for a headlamp than I do for a sleeping bag.

I have tried a few LED headlamps so far - the Princeton Tec Matrix, Princeton Tec Aurora, Petzl Tikka, and Black Diamond Ion - and all are wonderful lightweight in-camp headlamps. On a climb at 2 a.m., however, the power just isn't there. I climbed Mount Adams in Washington State once using the Matrix (the most powerful of the bunch), and often found myself relying on my climbing partner's traditional bulb light to look further up the route. I have had traditional bulb headlamps burn out on me at frighteningly bad times - once during 60+ mile per hour (96 km/hr) sleety winds on Mount Rainier at 12,000 feet (3660 m) - so am determined to find an LED solution.

One of my biggest complaints is that most LED headlamps are flood or area lights. I prefer a spotlight when I climb, but this has been missing from LED headlamps so far.

The Black Diamond Zenix appears to meet my needs, as it was designed as a mountaineering headlamp and addresses the concerns outlined above.

The Zenix uses a focused lens on the center HyperBright LED (see description above) to cast a conical spotlight rather than the typical floodlight LEDs give off. The 2 SuperBright LEDs retain the floodlight cast, making them excellent for casual in-camp use.

While a mountaineering light is my primary reason for being interested in the Zenix, I realize that this is actually a very small portion of the time I spend outdoors. That being the case, I want a light that can last for many, many hours on a single set of batteries and handle the in-camp duties. With the ability to switch off the HyperBright LED and just use the lower powered SuperBright LEDs for less light intensive activities, the Zenix appears to fit this requirement perfectly.

Black Diamond has made switching between the two types of LEDs quite simple. One button only, with minimal modes. The first click of the button turns on the 2 SuperBright LEDs for normal usage. This seems smart to me since this will probably account for most of the use of the Zenix. The second click turns the lamp off. Again, this makes sense if the SuperBright use is most common. A third click, however, turns on the HyperBright LED for intense lighting needs. In my initial testing, there is certainly a difference between the bulbs. Not only does the HyperBright LED reach much, much further than the SuperBrights, it is indeed a cone-shaped beam. While a climbing light cannot be judged in the middle of Seattle, the initial indications are that this lamp really does have the potential to light up a climbing route in night conditions.

There are no "high" or "low" or "flashing" modes like many of the lightweight LED headlamps currently on the market.

The Zenix has a pretty large range in sizing. I'm confident it would fit a helmet, as my noggin is pretty big (7 1/2 hat size) and there is plenty of room for adjusting larger.

The lamp itself is quite small. In fact, the battery case (just a tad larger than 3 AAAs side-by-side) behind the head is larger than the lamp unit. The entire headlamp feels completely secure on my head without the top strap (removable) utilized. Unless I am using a helmet, I doubt I will need the added security of the over-the-head strap. Overall, the entire unit is relatively compact. It is similar in size to a Princeton Tec Matrix or Solo for those familiar with these common headlamps. The Zenix is bulkier than a Princeton Tec Aurora, Black Diamond Moonlight, or Petzl Tikka, but definitely smaller than a Princeton Tec VorTec or the larger Black Diamond lights such as the Lunar.

Both the headlamp itself and the battery compartment are comfortably padded (the former by foam and the head strap, the latter by a hard rubber and the head strap. The battery compartment cover uses a large (glove friendly?) screw that can be turned by strong fingers or a standard slot screwdriver or coin. An interesting feature here is that while the cover to the battery compartment completely separates from the headlamp, the screw does not. There is a catch on the inside of the cover that prevents the screw from coming completely out and risking drop and loss. Very clever, in my opinion.

The headlamp itself is on a hinge, ranging from horizontal to almost 90 degrees straight down.

The Zenix does not come with a mini stuff sack or other type of container, but seems very durable and tough and tossing it into a pack full of gear is unlikely to do much damage.

Overall, the Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp appears to be a very well made LED headlamp with mountaineering as its end-use goal.

4. Black Diamond Zenix LED Headlamp Testing Plan and Location

The vast majority of my usage of the Zenix Headlamp will be in the Central Washington Steppe and the Central and North Cascades. I may get the opportunity to also test it in the French Alps.

I'll be testing the Zenix with a focus on the following questions:

1) First and foremost, will the Zenix function well as a mountaineering headlamp capable of long life and bright focused light when life and limb can be at stake?

2) Does it fit? Does it work on a bare head, a beanie-covered head, and/or on a climbing helmet? Is it adjustable? Easily so?

3) Is it durable? With normal use, including exposure to foul weather, does it continue to function reliably?

4) Are the features simple and easy to utilize? Can the batteries easily be changed? Is it simple to turn it on and off? Can these things be done with gloves? Mittens?

5) Does the focused lens truly create a beam of light? Is it similar in scope and power to a traditional bulb headlamp?

6) In the end, is this a headlamp that is happily worn at 2 a.m. on the side of a volcano, or is it a debate whether or not to go with the LED or the bulb due to reliability, power, comfort, or function concerns.

5. Contact and Background Information

Background Information:

Curt Peterson: e-curt@a...
Age: 32
Gender: Male
Height: 6'3" (1.91 m)
Weight: 270 (122 kg)

I live in Seattle and do the vast majority of my outdoor activities in Washington State. During the summer I try to head to the backcountry at least every other week, averaging 3 to 5 multi-day trips in July, August and September. In the fall and early winter, I usually do a couple day hikes a month and probably one overnight per month. In the winter, I ski 1 to 2 days per week, and backpack in the Central Washington steppe 1 to 2 times over the season. Spring and early summer I usually climb, most often on the Cascade volcanoes. I usually go to the coast in Olympic National Park at least once a year, and try to summit at least one big volcano a year, so the range of locations that I test gear is pretty broad. I also do a 3-mile (4.8km) walk each day with my dog, no matter what the conditions are, and I often evaluate gear during that time.

I played football in college, and have been pretty active my entire life. I have been camping and backpacking as long as I can remember. First in Utah as a child, in Minnesota until I finished college, and here in Washington ever since. I served on the Product Test Committee for Seattle's biggest outdoor gear retailer for a two- year term in the mid-90s, then guided backpacking tours with my wife in Olympic National Park for a few summers. I've been interested in the most recent shift to lightweight thinking for the past few of years and really enjoy checking out new ideas and approaches to backpacking.

Read more reviews of Black Diamond gear
Read more gear reviews by Curt Peterson

Initial Report

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